Part 2: Puerto Escondido—Sun, Surf, and Serenity

This is Part 2 of a 3-part series on our adventure through Mexico.

Anfernee Chansamooth

Aug 31, 2024

Part 1: Oaxaca—A Cultural Feast

Anfernee Chansamooth

Aug 23

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Beach Bliss in Puerto Escondido

After our cultural deep dive in Oaxaca, we were ready to embrace the laid-back vibes of Puerto Escondido. This beach town, known for its surf spots and stunning sunsets, was the perfect place to relax and recharge.

The 3-hour bus ride from Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido felt like a journey through time and space, with rocky cliffs, towering cacti, and deep valleys unfolding before us. As the bus curved around a final bend, the first sight of the ocean gleamed like a distant promise—a breathtaking view that instantly made the long trip worth it.

(Sadly I lost the memory card that had most of my photos from this leg of the trip. I’m crushed!)

Where We Stayed

We split our 10-day stay between two areas:

El Centro: Our hotel (Hotel Villas Xaiba) was super chill and located within walking distance to great restaurants and Playa Carrizalillo, a perfect beach for swimming.

La Punta: For the second half of our stay, we booked an Airbnb in the quieter La Barra, about a 20-25 minute walk from La Punta beach area. The peace and serenity were unmatched, though it meant we did a lot of walking (which isn’t a bad thing). Here are some photos from the Airbnb listing:

Highlights of Puerto Escondido

Our time in Puerto Escondido was filled with moments of relaxation, exploration, and connection with the natural beauty around us. Here are some of the highlights:

Playa Carrizalillo: My fave beach in Puerto Escondido hands-down. As we descended the steep stairs, the view of the turquoise bay below took our breath away. The water was inviting, cool against the warm air, and you could spend hours floating, swimming, and just soaking in the sun. The playful waves lulled us into a state of pure relaxation, and for those precious moments, the rest of the world seemed to disappear.

Ix kimiaranda, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Mazunte Day Trip: On our last day in El Centro, we embarked on an adventure to the quiet town of Mazunte. The journey itself was a story—riding a local bus packed with locals, then hopping into the back of a pickup truck with strangers who became instant travel buddies. As we reached Mazunte, the nearly deserted beach stretched out before us, the waves lapping softly at the shore. We shared a simple but delicious meal overlooking the ocean, the sea breeze tangling our hair as we talked about life and dreams. Before heading back, we stopped by a coconut vendor and had fresh, cold coconuts. Refreshing even without a straw due to the town's plastic ban.

In hindsight, I wish we had more time to explore Mazunte and surrounding towns. For instructions on how to get to Mazunte from Puerto Escondido refer to this excellent guide.

Cindy’s Birthday Celebration: I planned for Cindy’s birthday to be a day full of surprises and unique experiences. We started with a late lunch at Chicama, a popular Peruvian seafood restaurant in La Punta. The moment we stepped inside, we were enveloped in the lively energy of the place - the lively vibe, and the fun staff who danced and performed tricks like bartenders in a Tom Cruise movie. We were led to a table on the sand-covered floor, where we kicked off our shoes and let the sand tickle our toes. The ceviche pescodor arrived, a beautiful plate of fresh fish marinated in lime and spices. With the first bite, a burst of flavors danced on our tongues, and we knew we were in for a treat. After lunch, we strolled through La Punta, the waves crashing nearby as we explored the shops. But then the sky darkened, and the rain came down in sheets. Laughing, we ran for cover to a nearby hotel, where we waited for over an hour for our evening tour pickup. Despite the rain, nothing could dampen our spirits.

Laguna de Manialtepec: The bioluminescent lagoon tour was the perfect ending to Cindy’s birthday. The journey there was filled with anticipation, as we braved the cold rain and huddled together on the boat, shivering under our jackets. But the moment we slipped into the warm water, all the discomfort melted away. The lagoon glowed around us, each movement creating ripples of light that danced on the surface like stars fallen to Earth. Cindy, who had been hesitant at first, joined me in the water, and we floated there, spellbound by the magic of it all. It felt like we were swimming in a dream, and for that brief time, the world was a place of pure wonder. There are only thirty-five bioluminescent lagoons in the world, and experiencing one in Mexico was truly special.

Photo shared with me by the tour operator of the lagoon taken from the boat. The water *really* looked like this! (it was impossible to capture this with my smartphone)

Travel Tips for Puerto Escondido

Where to stay: Splitting your stay between El Centro and La Punta gives you a varied experience of Puerto Escondido, allowing you to enjoy both the tranquil and lively sides of this beautiful destination. If party vibe is more your thing, head to Playa Zicatela.
Transportation:
- Getting a Didi ride from El Centro to our Airbnb in La Barra was easy but expensive. However, finding a Didi from La Barra to Centro was nearly impossible. We eventually got one, but it was costly. Our Airbnb provided taxi numbers, which came in handy when we couldn’t get a Didi.
- I considered renting a scooter in El Centro, but after learning there was no insurance coverage, I decided against it. In hindsight, having a scooter would have been handy to save us all the walking, especially on super hot days. There are multiple rental spots in Puerto Escondido to grab a scooter or a popular ATV from if you’re keen.
Currency Exchange: Currency exchange was nonexistent in Puerto Escondido. ATMs can be problematic, so bring plenty of Mexican pesos. You can pay by card at some places, but cash is king.
Sim Card: Our friend Nikky suggested we buy a 1-month prepaid data-only SIM card from OXXO (similar to 7-Eleven). I picked one up at the Mexico City airport when we landed. Coverage was good in Mexico City and mostly good in Oaxaca, but terrible in Puerto Escondido.
Groceries:
- We found a local vendor selling fruits and veggies on the sidewalk in front of a school (Primaria Narciso Mendoza) in La Barra de Colotepec. There’s also a supermarket about 5 mins walk up the road called "MI SÚPER PRECIO" where we bought drinks and other groceries to save money.
- Moringa Fresh and Wild: This health food store by La Punta beach is a gem! We picked up ginger kombucha and were able to return the glass bottle the next day. They offer vegan and gluten-free options, cakes, and power balls.
Food Highlights:
- Chicama: I’ve already spoken about our experience in Cindy’s Birthday section earlier. Dining here is a MUST when in Puerto Escondido.
- D'Coral Restaurante: A local gem with a 4.7-star rating. We stumbled upon this place on our first night in La Barra. The terrace upstairs offers a cool breeze and a nice view. Check it out here.
- Amoki Jr. La Casa Del BIG Burrito: We discovered this spot by the beach in La Punta and loved the burrito so much we returned on our last night to try another. The burritos are huge and yummy, so we split one between us, which was more than enough.
- Dulce Tierra La Punta: A popular cafe and bakery chain known for its coffee and croissants. We went there for breakfast on our final morning in Puerto Escondido. The mocha was decent, and the croissant was a nice treat. We often saw customers on their laptops inside, taking advantage of the free Wi-Fi and getting their digital nomad on whenever we walked past in the afternoons.